Down Juramento River
‘Marcel,
it’s raining through the roof!’
‘Do
you really think we’re going to be able to go rafting today?’
…
Those
were our early-morning talks. We were next to Cabra Corral Dam, a violent storm
had hit us during the night, but things were starting to settle
down over breakfast.
I
had contacted Salta Rafting some months back, they seemed a very friendly
bunch, and they were very receptive and understanding to all the changes that I
had to make… that I couldn’t disappoint them.
So,
as we had no reception and even our B&B hosts couldn’t make a call (echoes
of the storm, obviously), we started driving. We should have been on time, but
the road became more and more challenging. Why? Because it was full of rocks –
which we weren’t allowed to remove (some men from an official truck were
gathering them) –, so we slalomed.
The
scenery was fascinating. It all seemed so remote… and at one point, when we
turned onto the dirt road, wilderness took over completely and, surprisingly,
Juramento River was clear.
‘…contrary
to what you said, my love!’ I giggled.
We
were welcomed in a very friendly manner. The rafting base looked lovely! We
filled in papers, took our gear, went through the training – all under a bright
summery light.
The
starting point – and moment – was near. Preto would be our guide – a very
polite and charming man. A wonderful family from Bolivia would be our teammates.
Paola and Marco were travelling through Argentina with Nicole, Santi, and
Andresito – who was the youngest person in our boat. In Romanian, we would call
him mezin.
I
had a feeling that we would get along just great.
In
fact, our river adventure started peacefully – with birds and flat water (which
reminded me of the Danube Delta). Indeed, under the scorching sun, the
first few hundred meters paddled were whitewater… while the first rapid ‘La
Isla’ marked the clear border with the blackwater – which accompanied us till
the end.
Ha
ha… a new experience happily embraced, surrounded by the beauty that – framed by
the high cliffs – could only be discovered from water. Aaah, the Andean
North-West…
We
went on, saw 6 condors flying high above us and tried to imagine how they’d
perceive us and our raft down in the river bed. ‘Casa de Condor’ – the last rapid (there are 10 altogether) of the
descent does have a point.
Other
highlights are the dinosaur footprints that you can see along the way.
Or
maybe even the moments when you make changes inside the boat and show the guys
that girls can paddle and be in sync, too! ;-)
A
delicious lunch followed after the well-deserved showers. I even had my own
vegetarian version of it!
And
we got the chance to bond even more as a team. My heart starts smiling every
time I realise that I am surrounded by warm and considerate people. People who
share their food and stories with you. ♥
We
still keep in touch and I hope to be able to meet them again.
In
the end, it is not the grade of the river that counts (the rapids range
between 2 and 3+ on Río Juramento), but what the river teaches you. The
memories you take with you. The nature that wows you. The thrills that you
experience.
Or
the courage of a little boy who starts paddling again at the end of the route,
enjoying the last drops of water on his skin.
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