Croatia Island Hopping: Whitish Brač

Based in Jelsa, we decided to make an effort and take the 6am hydrofoil ride to neighbouring Brač. We were undertaking a detox, I had a translation to complete the night before, and we’re not morning people – this is why I wrote ‘effort’.

 

We felt groggy as we arrived in pretty (but expensive) Bol; after grabbing some delicious bakes for breakfast from ‘Bol’ Bakery, we headed to Zlatni Rat, the hyped beach [which looks great from above, but otherwise is a regular pebbly beach]. The shady pathway to the beach is nice, though, and offers beautiful sea views. One thing we loved about Zlatni Rat was that we slept well there, I’d say too well because, by the time we returned to the starting point of the shady pathway, where many rental companies were located, almost all good deals had been taken.

Travel by bicycle or by car? If you choose the first, know that Brač is a steep island. Also, consider the heat, which can be too much in summer, even early in the morning. We ended up renting a coupé – they gave us a deal because the air conditioning system of the car didn’t work. It seemed like a great idea at first but we burnt our skin. :D [And the rental company doesn’t deserve a mention.]

What stayed with us? Well, it was not the island’s highest point or the quarries that coincide with Brač, but—

The Olive Oil Museum in Škrip – one of those traditional stone villages where ladies sell lavender and time seems to stand still. This isn’t a museum; it is an institution! People are friendly there, while the food was the best we’ve had in Croatia, outside our friends’ home! The products sold there are delicious, and so is the olive oil.

The prettiest settlement I saw (I had wanted to get there for some time!) was Pučišća. We unwound, had some pineapple juice at KO-TO, played with a dog who loved stones (the irony!), and walked around.

In the end, we had a well-deserved swim off the beach we had our eyes on from the beginning (when we got back to Bol): Kotlino.

  

As the area around Hvar is one of the sunniest in Europe, we didn’t worry about the weather – which was rainy for the remaining part of our trip –, but enjoyed our day trip to Brač as it was, on a holiday and all. ☼