Balkanesque & Asia Minoresque: Kırkpınar and Edirne’s new and old

Whenever Edirne and I meet, a beautiful story continues. I love the authenticity of the old walls, the dessert flavours, and the mosque minarets.

This time around, Turkey was in the quarter-finals at the EURO 2024. Marcel and I expected a big show in Edirne’s central square but ended up watching the game at our hotel. The great part about this was having great company and discussions with Gianna and Baki (over our joint Balkan heritage).   

 

662 & 663 Kırkpınar

Both were bizarre, mainly because the public’s favourite wrestlers (and our favourite) were eliminated from the competition. 

Highs? Last year's festival  had one of the best selection of local producers.

Lows? 662 Kırkpınar was the last to follow the original rules. As more than 3000 wrestlers competed, the organisers searched for a solution. Ultimately, they came up with a league-style competition, with Okulu and Gürbüz occupying the first two spots. The solution was not embraced by many of the başpehlivans, who wanted to boycott the event.

In the end, 663 Kırkpınar did happen. It was less genuine than the usual event, with more police and rules and fewer local producers and sellers.

Still, I had the best gözleme of my life! And some fantastic lemonades (a first for Kırkpınar, like the new parking that filled up rather fast). We needed liquids for that hot air that made festival attendance difficult. The wrestlers must have had an extra competitor – the heat. After winning these last two editions, Yusuf Can Zeybek has a chance to get the golden belt, in an interesting turn of events for next year.  

 

What’s new in Edirne?

For a delicious künefe (one of the best I’ve had!), TatveTat is the place!

Last year, we discovered Social Plate, one of my favourite restaurants ever. Dining there is a feast; they have many vegetarian (even vegan) options! The experience is worth every Turkish Lira! P.S. Try the Virgin Mojito; it is more than delicious!

 

Oldies but goldies in Edirne

The milk baklava at Tatlı Konağı was our favourite found in Edirne. While we tasted it one more time last year, they weren’t making it anymore this year. We hope they restart!

We only visited Edirne’s market (Ulus Pazarı) last year, but we couldn’t miss it this year either (you can park inside). My favourite finds? Okra, of course! Then, bell peppers, fresh valerian and mint, nectarines, and lemons!

 

After our 2022 visit to Turkey, things started to deteriorate. Inflation made life unpredictable for locals – and we felt their usual warm welcome grow a bit cold.

A year later, the situation was even worse, so I hope they find the strength (and I know that it’s in them!) to go beyond this situation and wholeheartedly smile again.

On my end, I know that the journey is the most beautiful of all, together with the return home, to the paws I love with my entire being.🐾