Project Lebanon 2023

Reaching Lebanon was one of my biggest travel-related dreams. At the end of 2023, in the midst of the craze, Marcel and I got there and loved it!

Here are our suggestions, organised by our ‘bases’.

 

• Base: Beirut

In Beirut, we stayed in Hamra. It is very easy to walk around this neighbourhood, as it is filled with cafés and restaurants. I perceived it as a safe area. These are my suggestions for Lebanon’s capital—

 

𓌉◯𓇋 Yum

Slot – we had a break here; the mango espresso lemonades and the sweet potato fries (with their delicious sauce!) were delicious!

Cantina Sociale – tasty food and drinks, cosy ambience, kind people!

 

ʚଓ Sweet tooth

Hamra Juice – Our first stop in Beirut; we loved their juices!

Le Flocon – the atmosphere is lovely; the labneh flavour is surprising, that olive mini-bottle is an inviting touch.

Hanna Mitri – it is an institution and a good candidate for your favourite flavour; mine was strawberry (and it was surprising!).

 

⚲ Roaming around

Gemayzeh – one of Beirut’s most interesting neighbourhoods; it is bohemian all the way!

Pigeon Rocks – home to a former world cup cliff diving stage, they are spectacular under regular conditions; we saw them during a storm, go figure!

 

✈︎ Where next?

Harissa – not only are the churches beautiful, but the road there and the views are unforgettable. You can also drive if you don’t wish to take the cable car.

  

• Base: Byblos

It is said to be one of the oldest places in the world. Arriving in the middle of the storm added drama to the old harbour and the place, altogether. What did I love in and around Byblos?

 

ʚଓ Sweet tooth

Bachir Ice Cream – my favourite ice cream (rose with ashta) of the entire trip; the competition was tough!

 

𓌉◯𓇋 Yum

KANU Poke Bar – it was our first time experiencing Hawaiian cuisine; we loved the fresh ingredients and the interactive character of the restaurant!

 

✈︎ Where next?

Batroun was the place that felt the most Mediterranean (can I say that? :D). Its streets are perfect for a stroll and quite charming.

💧 Water activities

At the southern end of the Phoenician Wall, there’s a small beach (Bahsa). You’ll find a natural pool there; you can snorkel at ease.

 

Anfeh is a fishing village renowned for its sea salt production. It has a very light and airy vibe.

            𓌉◯𓇋 Yum

Samket Gerge Dayaa was our favourite restaurant in Lebanon; it’s a fish restaurant, and I’m a vegetarian. That says a lot about the versatility of its chef and the quality of its products.

 

-`♡´- Take something with you

We were advised to go to St. John the Baptist Orthodox Monastery; for a small donation, you can take sea salt collected in Anfeh, in its purest form.

 

Hermel is said to be the most dangerous place in Lebanon. It felt quite easy-going to me. We drove there via Anfeh and Tripoli over the snowy mountains (yes, it had snowed and we had summer tyres!) and returned via Baalbek.  

💧 Water activities

Rafting down the Assi River is a beautiful adventure (there’s a terrific waterfall at the end of the route). I fully recommend Rafting Squad to accompany you.

 

• Base: Jounieh

When you think you can’t get higher up the mountain and find a settlement, you do.

 

ʚଓ Sweet tooth

Awad – coconut and avocado; so rich, so full! Who would have thought? I still think about it.

 

⚲ Roaming around

Jeita Grotto – a beautiful water cave! Apparently, you can’t film inside, but I will also tell you that nothing is set in stone in Lebanon. :-)

 

✈︎ Where next?

When your host tells you about the best falafel in Lebanon, you go to Saida even though you didn’t want to include it in your plans. The city’s bazaar area ends up being the greatest culture shock.

 

            𓌉◯𓇋 Yum

Falafel Akkawi lives up to its reputation.

 

• Base: Tyre

While in Romania, we were advised not to go by our ‘authorities’. We disregarded their suggestion. We followed our hearts instead. It turned out so well!

 

ᶻ 𝗓 𐰁 Sleep well

ĒL Boutique Hotel, named after the ancient supreme god of the Phoenicians, fascinated us with views of the Mediterranean Sea, a glitzy terrace, a wide bathroom, and a tasty breakfast.  

 

⚲ Roaming around

Tyre Hippodrome is a place to marvel at and understand. Take your time. :-)

 

💧 Water activities

The beach in front of ĒL Boutique Hotel sits right at the tip of the peninsula where nowadays Tyre is located. There’s your chance to snorkel around old sunken columns.  

The other beach, famous for turtle nesting, is Sour Beach. It is gorgeous, but sadly very dirty on the way to it (and back).

 

-`♡´- Take something with you

If you can’t find what you are seeking in the smaller shops or the bazaar (I was looking for mastic), Spinneys is a good place to visit. I was surprised to find many Romanian products there!

 

• Base: Mresti

This was the part of Lebanon I loved most! It may have been the overall tranquillity or maybe the relaxed nature of the Druze people that made me feel even more at ease.

  

𓌉◯𓇋 Yum

Los – not only is the view fabulous, but I encourage you not to leave without trying their garlic baguettes.

Coara – the surroundings are splendid, so are the dishes!

ᨒ↟Time in nature

Jezzine Waterfall – you can see it after entering Bkassine Village, by descending along the Lady of Lebanon

The Fortress of Niha was my favourite place in Lebanon! It felt like I lived there before! I loved every bit of its views and energy!

When you buy a Chouf Nature Reserve Pass (there are local products sold at every entry point!), it is valid for all the sites. We couldn’t miss the 30-45-minute loop trail around the oldest trees in Lebanon inside the Barouk Cedar Forest.

 

-`♡´- Take something with you

Ask around. In the area around the Shouf Reserve, you can find excellent olive oil soaps.

Other things to know?

• Knowing French will go a long way in Lebanon.

• Buying a SIM Card in Lebanon is expensive; it will be registered in your name based on your passport.

• Talking of phones, you need to pay customs duty on your phone within 30 days.

• City Car Beirut is a good option if you wish to rent a car in Beirut.

• At the time of our visit, the inflation was skyrocketing; prices would change even during the day! Bring USD.

 

In the end, Lebanon is a country with soul. It is varied and spectacular. I’ve said it before about my country, but I feel I need to say it about Lebanon, too. It is a land welcoming you through its people.