Late autumn in the Apuseni Mountains

Yes, you’re right. We’ve already started living our winter for a while.

Yet memories of the Apuseni fill my heart – and I have several reasons for that. One is a giant fluffy friend we made there. He became even more. His name was Gălbenuş (=yolk).

 

As we stayed in Buces-Vulcan Village, dominated by the sight of Mount Vulcan, we couldn’t get enough of our new furry friend’s company. We decided to spend time with him and throw our travel plans to the wind. I felt quite sick after a challenging detox; however, we decided to hike together after breakfast (our breakfasts are served mainly around lunchtime). As you exit the village, you’ll see a trail to your right. Follow it until you reach a crossroads (you’ll even see a path framed by white stones to your left). Take the trail on your right and walk until you get to a big antenna and beautiful views of the surroundings. It will take around 2.5-3 hours there and back, with breaks to gather juniper and turkey tail mushrooms included. It was a wonderful hike because we were together. ♥

 

 

 

For the easy trail (steps and bridges – about 10 minutes) to Cascada Săritoarea [Săritoarea Waterfall], you should find the official door of access, as the location on the maps will take you into the forest. Head towards Stănija, pass the church on your left and follow the signs to the waterfall. It is as delicate as it is beautiful! It was surrounded by a carpet of leaves when we visited.

 

The road to Peştera Poarta lui Ionele [Poarta lui Ionele Cave] passes through Cheile Ordâncuşii [Ordâncuşii Ravine]. The path to the cave entrance is very scenic. The guide is a very knowledgeable and lovely man. He knows a lot about the bat colony in the cave. So, ask away!

Don’t miss the warm cheese pies sold at the start of the path to the cave.

 

 

Our first and magical hike to Izbucul Tăuz (easy and probably around 15 minutes to see it and return) was linked to a kitten found just outside Remetea Village in Bihor County. We were unaware of it then, but he ended up changing our lives! Izbucul Tăuz is one of the most beautiful places we’ve seen not only in Romania, but in the entire world! Summer brought out the turquoise in the water, while the autumn colours and lower water levels offered a different perspective. We met some locals here who told us about Coiba Mică and Coiba Mare caves and made us curious to discover them.

 

Casa de Piatră is one of my favourite villages. It is like one of those fairy tale villages. We were lucky to be back after 10 years. We had a small talk with the owner of Pensiunea Casa de Piatră [Casa de Piatră Guesthouse] and some delicious stone-baked blueberry pies made by his wife. He also gave us precise directions to the caves we wanted to see.

 

 

The first was Coiba Mare. We left our car at the official entry point into the Apuseni Natural Park (cars were not allowed from there on). We immediately found the trail leading to it on our left (2-3 minutes to Coiba Mare) after Marcel fed a cute dog. We also met with the nice people who recommended the place! I was impressed beyond words! After all, you're facing the largest cave portal in Romania. You feel so small but you realise you’re part of it all!

 

 

Some 200 metres on your left (the descent can be slippery), there’s the short trail to Coiba Mică. The water that you see goes underground and surfaces at Izbucul Tăuz. We were not aware of that until we met the kind locals mentioned above.

 

 

As you head towards Gârda Seacă Village, you’ll find a spring on your left. We stopped and filled our bottles. The long drive to Braşov started.

 

 

We were already missing Gălbenuş. His name is Suflet (=soul) now. ♥

But that is another story.