It had been a gruelling trip from Puducherry to Kollam.
I was tired and had barely slept and eaten, and yet I noticed the sun
shining and the warm smiles of the strangers. After nearly one month through
South India, it was the first time I’d be happy over such a small yet big
thing: the sparkles in those white teeth, in bulk. The waves were as wild as
everywhere we’d stumble upon them in India, but the vibe was different, more
laid-back, more preoccupied with the positive aspects of life.
Fast forward to another morning and the canals of enchanting Alleppey.
Interesting meanders, interesting green, not-so-interesting houseboats and
rates. // Our initial plan was to hire such a houseboat and navigate Kerala’s
backwaters on it. These vessels come equipped with staff and meals are prepared
on board. Back in the day, when ‘Globe Trekker’ star Justine Shapiro explored
the area, the prices were lower and the conditions of the boats – better.
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| Colours of the backwaters |
Back-up plan: we needed to find some food, a good Internet connection,
and were down to our last rupees. We ended up somewhere in the middle of
nowhere, near the Arabian Sea, realised that the area was a true construction
site at that moment and – after negotiations with tuk-tuk drivers, managed to
reach a quiet place, by one of the canals, have breakfast and a drink and book
ourselves a place with a view.
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| The canals |
From Alleppey, we drove north, stopping to arrange our kayak tour for
the following day. Marcel had read that it was by far the best way to explore
the backwaters. At a point, we turned right and started navigating a meander of
narrow streets that seemed to reproduce the sinuosity of water in style. We
were greeted with warmth and kindness and were taken to our room. Did I say ‘a
place with a view’ in the previous paragraph? I should have added at least ‘unforgettable’.
We had everything we could have wanted: the backwaters stretching into a kind
of lake, my friends – the very interesting fruit bats, a garden full of palm
trees to marvel at, and extremely delicious meals, throughout the day. Because
Orchid Lake View Homestay gives you all that.
I had never felt so relaxed during my time in India; I didn’t even mind
the humidity, which made me change my clothes (at least) three times a day. I
was hooked by the scenery, the friendliness, the tapioca chips, and the
football games in the village – over the short time spent there (merely two
nights), Marcel had become an important part of the sporting event and sort of
a football star and I was happy to cheer for him and not even think of the many
mosquitoes planning to attack me.
The following morning was pouring, so we cancelled our kayaking
adventure. When the rain stopped, we went into the garden, witnessing the art
of harvesting coconuts. We even got to savour the freshest of them, straight
from the tree.
Our great host arranged the renting of a traditional fishing boat, so we
went paddling under worried glances.
-
Can you swim? It is
dangerous to be out here – were the words of a fisherman we’d meet pretty far
away from the homestay.
I know, the boat was narrow and unstable, I was a woman, there was talk
of underlying currents; still, I enjoyed every bit of the journey on water and
it became my favourite moment in India.
As we returned and Marcel went out for another ride with our friend in
an attempt to catch some fish, I continued staring into the pink sunset and
realising that the place I was in, the people I was surrounded by, and the way
I felt then would be missed.
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| Out fishing |
We finally managed to go on the kayaking tour on our last day in the
area, at 6:30 in the morning. We hugged our newly-found family goodbye and were
off on water. I liked the colours, the rush in the backwaters, and the palm
trees guarding; I tried to reconnect them to my Delta, but there were so unlike
in nature!
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| Kayaking the backwaters |
Kochi was next. Another delightful town, another laid-back feel.
Chocolate and banana pancakes, a stroll by the Chinese fishing nets, and the
joy of curious youngsters. Wrapped up by an extraordinary Kathakali show, which
will always stay with me and my heart.
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| pre-Kathakali make-up session |
On our way to the airport, I could perceive the first blinks of the warning
lights. ‘No honk?’ I told myself and smiled. This truly is a different part of
India!
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| My favourite restaurant in Fort Kochi |
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