8 years later, our highlights from Lanka
That is what a local would call his country, most endearingly.
‘Why would I go to any other place and splurge? Have you seen our beaches?’
I have. They are stunning.
‘The people are enjoying their lives after many years of troubles.’
I agree with that. And their joy is intoxicating.
It does seem Sri Lanka has it all. In any case, this is the welcome I was given and you could enjoy a similar one when you finally decide to fly and stay. Then, you can take it from there.
A perfect start would be Pinnawala, in the country’s centre – most visitors fly to Colombo, anyway –. So, once you’ve adjusted to the smiles and friendliness of the locals and you‘ve started to understand that they like to get things done, you can just take a train or a taxi to Rambukkana, depending on your travel style and budget. Let your hair down, unwind, and start contemplating the palm trees – aren’t they some of the most beautiful you’ve ever seen? Pinnawala is one of those villages that rose to fame but still has some authenticity for the explorer to indulge in. Go for a walk, have a meal while enjoying the views of Oya River and even watching the elephants bathe, or simply go gemstone shopping [you can also try it in Kandy for optimal results]. I’d skip the elephant orphanage visit; the animals are not necessarily happy there and it doesn’t feel like an orphanage. A very interesting endeavour would be checking out the items made of elephant dung, in the small factory located on the way of the herd to the river.
Personal highlight? Feeling tens of elephants stomping!
What should you do next? You must take at least one train in Sri Lanka; if the first journey was one day before and hasn’t put you off – locals say it could –, go for a very scenic ride straight to Haputale. You will pass Kandy and Nuwara Eliya and enjoy the sight of the tea plantations from above, in a green and whitish dance with the clouds. The entire adventure will take around five hours; you don’t need to worry if you haven’t got enough water or snacks; there will be plenty of sellers around.
A new morning should start with a beautiful sunrise, isn’t it? Hike or hire a tuk-tuk to Lipton’s Seat and be wowed by the place where Sir Lipton would come and spend time looking at his fortune. Children on their way to school will giggle and monkeys will play curious.
Personal highlight? You will find it hard to resist and not follow the railway tracks, local style, to discover one village after another scattered around the town while greeting one kind face after another. P.S. The local chocolate/fudge is delicious!
The glances will continue on the bus that takes you to Tissamaharama, the starting point for a safari in Sri Lanka’s most visited park, Yala. It can become one of the most beautiful dawns of your life, with a sight of leopard/black bear/elephant/mongoose/crocodile lingering on your mind while the dust lingers on your clothes and hair.
Personal highlight? My first leopard.
It is time to hit the beach! Ahangama is two hours and a half away by bus and it’s a very authentic place. People are drawn to its stilt fishing (the fishermen aren’t the nicest!) and surfing. One short glance at the oceanfront will make you realise why.
Personal highlight? Café Ceylon – from savoury dishes and dessert to drinks and ambience! P.S. The surf-themed souvenirs bought from Ahangama were beautiful!
When you do leave and choose to take the train and wait on a bench in one of those typical and neat one or two-platform stations, you start thinking back – that you could have stopped and had a swim in Tangalle, some whale watching in Mirissa, or that you could just get off the train and tour the Dutch heritage at Galle and its lighthouse, yet you do not. Although an island, the possibilities abound and you understand that one week is a mere taster session of Lanka. If you like it, you will return. The three-fruit breakfasts will be missed.
But for now, Hikkaduwa and the turtles await. First things first, though. An early lunch by the beach, with the unmissable pineapple juice in a cool glass, by your side. Snorkelling in a more peaceful area, to the right; turtle watching in the waves, to the left. There is also the chance to see them get fed at 9am and 5pm. The sun is burning, the heat is pounding, and you haven’t realised it until now, but close to the end, you do.
Personal highlight? Just how kind people were to us, from our first day to our last! They picked us up from bus stops when it was pouring outside, made us feel like guests, and kept our luggage safe while we went for a swim.
Colombo is next, after yet another train – who said that you wouldn’t like riding them? – and the peaceful mountain/beach life must be left behind. You’re in a large city again, it’s crowded and a bit polluted and jammed, but the people have the same smiling faces. And then you discover that you could again be close to nature by watching the pelicans from the shores of Beira Lake… or even on your way to the airport, on the canals of Negombo Lagoon.
And you know what? You will return.
/The piece was written in November 2016 for Skylife, Turkish Airlines’ in-flight magazine –, which ceased to exist; not included in the weekly newsletter/
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