From Kakum to Ada

Well, I am a bit behind on the adventures… and I couldn’t skip telling you this one, which includes my favourite moments in Ghana.

So, looking back to October 2019, Marcel and I had spent 2 nights close to Elmina, at Ko-Sa Beach Resort. That morning, though, the start was earlier than usual, as we had planned to experience the canopy walk at Kakum National Park [and it was apparently opening at 6am].

Our driver for the last two days was there to pick us up and we continued through the dark, noticing people start their morning activities.

As the light came into the picture, so did the red of the earth and the cheerfulness in the colours worn by children heading to school.

In a very laid-back Ghanaian style (which didn’t bother me at all), we had to wait around half an hour for things to start operating around Kakum. Eventually, a guide showed up and we agreed to pay an extra fee (for the early walk – the rules are still fuzzy to me, but I didn’t mind again)… and off we went!

It is an easy 10-minute walk to where the actual canopy tour starts. Of course, curious as he usually is, Marcel asked many questions about plants.

Of course, in love as I am with heights, I couldn’t wait to start ‘swinging’ on the ropes, as our guide was telling me that not many people bear the feeling and the distance down, so there’s an emergency exit after the first bridge.

There are 7 altogether and the highest platform sits at 45 metres.

It ended too fast! I would have liked to stay a bit longer! Or to do it again! It’s true, we didn’t see any animals, but simply that stillness in the morning air and the chance to walk near the treetops were fantastic! One of my favourite activities in Ghana!

Some more nice surprises were on the way. We found noni tea at Kakum's visitor shop – something my Mom used to love and it was difficult to find in Romania. And then, for only GHS 2, right after we exited the park, we bought ourselves a cacao fruit. It was the trip’s culinary highlight for me! J

Next off, we headed to Cape Coast and our driver knew of a good place for an air-conditioned trotro to Accra (near BLCC). We were thrilled, bought some snacks, and enjoyed the ride. I posted a pic, e-mailed my Dad (work things)… and we were already on the outskirts of the capital. The thing is… we still didn’t know where to take a trotro to Ada from. A guy on our bus kindly made some phone calls. And, then, I heard a voice from behind me, telling me ‘Don’t worry, I’m from Ada, I’ll take you to the trotro stop’. My face suddenly lit up and I thanked him from all my heart. And that’s how I met David.

I never felt otherwise than safe in Ghana… well, except that time. I had seen our trotro make a few stops and taxi drivers simply grab bags from passengers (something I had experienced before, in Kenya)… and the unease crept into me. When David told us to keep our valuables safe, as we got off the trotro, it grew even more. Then, we took a cab and a break from the hustle and bustle around and we tried finding a ‘line’ through the crazy traffic of Accra. At one point, the hustle and bustle reappeared, as we continued by foot because we had been stuck for some minutes – enjoying the conversation with David, but nonetheless stuck in traffic. He didn’t even let us pay for the taxi. J It was a nice gesture.

We reached our trotro in the end, in the middle of something that seemed a large market. He instructed the driver to take care of us and then left smiling and promising he’d check on us.

The ride was adventurous – the trotro was so packed that the rear door (we had the last seats) didn’t even close… but we didn’t mind the fresh air.

We passed busy crossroads, heavy traffic, but then the green became the norm and village life replaced city life. I wished to arrive before sunset, to be able to find the accommodation and take care of things… but as we finally stopped in Ada Foah, the guys on motorbike taxis told us that we were on the wrong side of the river.

… /let me just catch my breath… What?/

A lesson I learnt over the years is: deal with what you’ve got.

‘So, how can we get on the other side?’

‘You could hire a boat.’

‘Where are the boats?’

‘That way.’

‘Thank you!’

We rushed through the market, smiled back at curious glances and kind faces… a little dog warmed up to us and joined us and everybody thought that he was ours. As we started negotiating our crossing –and realising that our accommodation was quite far-, we had to leave him behind. [I hope that he is safe and happy. ♥] We did accept the offer of a man whose face said ‘kindness’ all over.

‘It’s safe, Marcel, I trust him.’

‘I have the same feeling.’

So, we climbed into the boat with our backpacks and witnessed the sun going down over mighty Volta River. It was my mojo moment: letting a perfect stranger guide us on water for some tens of minutes. We found out that the currents of the ocean were strong and we felt some waves even on the river. In the end, the lights of the pier let us know that we had reached the end of our journey.

One shared cab ride later (it was already dark), we arrived at Meet Me There Lodge in Dzita. The manager welcomed us and it felt so natural… as if reaching that place had not required any effort from our part.

‘Hello, glad we’re here! Do you still serve dinner? We’re starving!’ J

It was my favourite meal in Ghana. If I remember correctly, I ate kakro – some spicy plantain fritters. The sauce was also spicy, but I loved it!

We shortly fell asleep in our basic but very cute room in this eco-retreat, which was encouraging sustainable travel. They had compost toilets, were supporting the protection of the turtles on the nearby beach (you could even sign up to be woken up if there were sightings! …which we did) and the collection of waste, and were helping out the vulnerable members of the community. I knew that we were surrounded by water and I couldn’t wait to see the wonders!

At breakfast, I watched the fish, the fishermen, the lagoon… everything was just perfect. I knew from the first moment that the Volta Region had become my favourite part of Ghana.

Bliss took over as I munched on my fruit pancakes.

We then decided to stay one more night. After checking with the staff and switching rooms and informing our accommodation at Wli that we wouldn’t make it there, we started taking it all in. The prospects of at least one (maybe two, depending on our luck) long trotro ride(s) to Wli and then back to Accra were not appealing anymore. We were tired and we needed to relax.

This seemed the perfect place to do that!

We went for a walk on the beach. The sand was burning hot.

I looked at the wide beige stretch and I understood how small I was – a point so close to Togo with nothing more than water all the way down to Antarctica!

Marcel took my hand and we visited the village, checking out the handmade items on offer, then returned to our room and washed some clothes, repacked our bags… things you must do on a journey.

Lunch was delicious and we went for a swim in the lagoon right before dinner. The water was so warm, the warmest I had experienced last year! Marcel got out on the other side and helped two fishermen prepare the net for the morning fishing session.

The guy at the reception had arranged a kayaking tour of Volta River’s canals for our last morning there. It wasn’t too windy, so we went. It started and ended at the pier where our boat had dropped us two days before. I enjoyed the stillness of the small canals, the waves of the open water, the mangroves, but our guide was a bit aloof. It seemed that Marcel and I were on our own – in my opinion, at least some basic kayaking skills are needed for this tour. We completed a 3-hour trip in half the time because we were in a hurry to check-out (sadly, our home for the past two nights wouldn’t have made an exception… not even for 10 minutes).

Still, I am glad that I had a taste of the Volta. We left with a trotro the other way (than we came) to Accra. It was long, crowded, and a huge storm was waiting for us in the city.

I had a last glimpse of my water paradise as we flew from Accra to Milan (via Lagos). 
It is calling me back! ♥